We landed in Churchill on a beautiful, clear day. There’s not much to Churchill. Nine hundred people, a few stores and restaurants, some repair shops, and houses. Still, it’s a tourist mecca of sorts and a sign that defined why our group made its pilgrimage: >
The Polar Bear Capital of the World
2:48 a.m. – “NORTHERN LIGHTS! NORTHERN LIGHTS.” Before we were off to bed, Leah pointed out how clear the skies were. Clear skies and sun spots increase the chance for a showing by the Aurora Borealis. She also warned us that if the phenomenon occurred, she would wake everyone up for at least a yes/no response of interest. She did not need to go door-to-door. All doors were open in seconds.
Karla and I enjoy the gift of being extremely compatible travel mates. We enjoy both travel and sharing the nature, sights and cultures. However, we do not share the ability to enjoy cold weather. I know Karla would be in enthralled by polar bears, Arctic Fox, and Snowy Owl sightings. I also know she wouldn’t be able to walk by now. The pain that the cold weather would be levying on her would be eclipsed by the pain she would be experiencing from sleeping on a plywood bed frame and thin mattress. To survive in the Hudson Bay area, one needs to be durable. Another survival skill is to be satisfied with little steps of progress.
Less than a quarter mile from the Lodge, or since this is Canada, just under 500 meters, is a tree with a trunk less than a foot in diameter and under 30 feet tall. Rinie pointed out the tree this morning and told us that the tree was cored a few year ago. The results: The tree is close to four hundred years old. Brush and small trees less than five feet tall that began their lives forty to fifty years ago. Today was my first trip on the Rover since we arrived on Monday.I noticed that the ice sheets had grown since our trip in. Two days and the beginning of Hudson Bay’s winter embrace was visibly noticeable.
I am surprised at the opportunity for education at the Lodge. I thought I just wanted to see polar bears, but our outfitter, Natural Habitat, is affiliated with the World Wildlife Fund, and they want us to be able to embrace and appreciate more than just the visual experience. One can come and just look at the bears, but our group is interested in more than just pictures. Leah and Rinie give us one or two presentations each day. As is often the case, the sex talk is the most memorable. Did you know…
Hunting behaviors, like dialects, vary across Polar Bear Nation. Rinie gave a presentation that was captivating. Pun intended. More on that topic later. The morning ride was picture rich. Over two hundred eighty shutter clicks on my camera, which have been pared down to around one hundred twenty-five. A Snowy Owl was the new sighting of the day. My major goal today was to take the picture for our 2015 Holiday Card. I think I was successful. But I have to wait to return to Mill Valley and share the pictures with Karla and see if she agrees. 29 October 2015
OK. I was wrong. TODAY I got our 2015 Holiday Card picture. I also had a momentary feeling of individual connection with one bear in the midst of all the buzz of our fellow travelers. This morning I knew I was on the last game ride that I would make on this adventure. Late into our ride, a female polar bear walked up to the rover. On the Rover, her approach evoked the familiar staccato click of camera shutters. After she came to the side of the rover, I stopped taking pictures. I just wanted admire her beauty and grace without a camera between us. Her head turned up to our observation deck and I was looking directly in her eyes. We locked eyes and I would not look away. It was a moment of spirits touching. After several seconds, she turned away. In my thoughts I thanked her and all of her fellow travelers for sharing their time with us. I wished safety and a winter of excellent hunting. She walked away to meet another rover. Staying near rovers can be a safe haven for a female when male bears are around. The males are less likely to be aggressive when the rovers are present. We moved on, but had to circle back quickly in order to return to the Lodge. Almost as soon as we were within a quarter mile, my new friend left the other rover behind to greet our rover one last time. While she was still some distance away. I took a picture of her approach and documented a feeling of connection I will not forget. 30 October 2015
The “whos” of our group have made my enjoyment tick up a notch. Like Spinal Taps’ amps, my time here has been an “11” thanks to my Lodge mates. Our guides Rinie and Leah are simply put World Class. I’m cannot catalogue all of the ways that they contributed to making the experience perfect. Above, I indicated there would be another mention of hunting behavior is you may have seen the video at the bottom of this link: Polar Bear Stalk Dive. Our Rinie is the Rinie quoted in the article. As expected, individuals braving the Tundra Lodge are not timid travelers. Still, I’ve spent four days with a group of engaging people who don’t seem to define themselves by what they do or did in their occupation, although when pressed they would discuss that piece of their life. They also don’t define themselves by where they’ve been. No subtle contests of “I’ve been here and here and here.” They all have rich experiences that they are willing to share, but they also enjoy listening to the adventures of others. Maybe to plan their next adventure, or maybe just to relive the cherished experience they had in a similar place. There are trials being faced by one couple in particular. Health-related trials. But they left those trials in Connecticut to add Churchill to the treasure chest of memories of their lives together. Their presence as members of our group have added to the richness of my adventure. We left the Lodge well before dawn to spend some time in Churchill before flying back to Winnipeg today. Churchill is a town of about 900 strong, and since Churchill is remote and there are no roads "to" Churchill, everyone and every thing needs to be brought in by air or train. Hence, it is expensive to buy even food staples. The townspeople here have been good hosts in their part of staging our visit, and spending some time and money is only appropriate. It seems all of us are sad to be at the end of this adventure. There’s some discussion about a reunion, but in reality, we know that we all will be off to other adventures. Some soon. Some not so soon. After a four day off-the-grid radio silence, one of Karla's first questions was “What was your most special moment.” She had to ask me to repeat myself after I blubbered through the story of my special moment. Later, at our Farewell Dinner, the same question went around our table of six. A woman at our table had a separate moment with a similar feeling of connection with one of the fifty-plus bears we had shared space with during our time at the Lodge. She too described her feeling of individual connection with one bear in the midst of all the buzz of our fellow travelers. This time, I kept my blubbering to a minimum. One of the women in our group noted “Usually on trips like this you spend the first day figuring out who the assholes are. We didn’t have any assholes.” It was true. A pang of sadness hit me at dinner. In the past, even when I have left behind grand experiences, I have been able to hold onto the shared memories with Karla, and we can savor them at any time. After tonight, the 27 other parts of my shared memories will be heading in different directions. Rinie and Leah will take them back to the Lodge beginning Monday, and the rest will be scattered as far away as New Zealand. Even so, at 56, the first edition of my Bucket List is empty. Although, at this moment, my bucket of fulfillment is overflowing.